I bought a 4 post alignment rack last month from a friend. Hindsight I wish I passed because it ended up being rustier than I realized. It was $2k for the lift with center airjacks, and a Hunter alignment machine. I'm working on rust removal now. I dug a pit in my back yard, lined it with a tarp, and I've been using electrolysis to remove the rust. It seems to have worked. The area the turn tables sit on in the rear was really rusted though. I'm going to be cutting those sections out and welding in some fresh steel before painting everything.
I bought a 4 post Supra77 alignment rack last month from a friend. Hindsight I wish I passed because it ended up being rustier than I realized. It was $2k for the lift with center airjacks, and a Hunter alignment machine. I'm working on rust removal now. I dug a pit in my back yard, lined it with a tarp, and I've been using electrolysis to remove the rust. It seems to have worked. The area the turn tables sit on in the rear was really rusted though. I'm going to be cutting those sections out and welding in some fresh steel before painting everything.
Same tires I ordered on same size wheels front/back. There are a few different pics if you click left/right, and it allows you to zoom in twice.
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Fastfalcon94s build thread (95 White Supra TT) Since I was on a role I decided to fix some other stuff that bugged me. I did a bunch of research on washer nozzles. Mine were clogged. I'm sure I could have unclogged them, but the oem white paint on them was also worn from someone getting too close with a buffer. It turns out some from a 2002-2006 Camry fit well and they use a misty bar style spray vs two streams.
Supra77 Situs Penyediaan Game Perjudian Online Terlengkap If you are coming from the Magnum there are a few things you'll need. The new trans obviously, the new tunnel cover (assuming you were originally an auto), a new driveshaft (the Magnum-F requires a longer one), a new speed sensor pigtail (I cut the one off my bolwer harness and wired on the new one, you'll need to adjust speed again after too as my speedo was off by about 15mph), and a new shift knob adapter. The thread pitch from the Sikky shifter is different than the Magnum F threads. You'll need a 3/16-16 to M16x1.5 adapter. Joel doesn't have them on his website, so I just purchased them one on ebay. Also an index plate if you didn't do indexing the first time. Then for your rear transmission mount you'll need to space it down with washers 1/8". Alternatively you could buy the Magnum-F mount from Grannas but for the cost of 4 washers you can save yourself a few hundred dollars.
Europeu0027s 2019 Toyota Supra Detailed In 107 Images fastfalcon94 said: I'm still trying to track down exactly what rubs. Click to expand Use a blue grease pencil and draw lines on the under body, should see where there is contact pretty easily.
They also used a silicone coupler in between the fuel pumps. It was starting to deteriorate.
MINI GT MIJO HKS TOYOTA GR SUPRA #77 FAT FIVE RACING 2020 D1 GRAND PRIX, Hobbies & Toys, Toys & Games on Carousell The "while I'm in there" factor led me into doing new valve stem seals, ARP head studs, new timing belt components with billet tensioner bracket from realstreet. I had to buy a puller to remove the fluidampr. It seems like Harbor Freight is a second home to me lately. For the valve stem seals I used a subaru ej20 tool I got off eBay for around $20. I used the compressed air method to keep the valves from dropping vs using the string method. I think it's just faster. When I'd work a cylinder I'd use a screwdriver down the spark plug hold to put that piston to TDCD. That way worst case scenario (ie I trip over air line and it disconnects) the valve wouldn't be able to drop down completely which is the reasoning people tend to use string method. For the ARP studs I used CA625s. Like others have done, I did them one at a time following the factory sequence. I'd pull the stud, drop the washer in place (used an Allen key to guide it down), install the ARP stud, torque to 50 ft/lbs. Once they were all in I went back through the sequence twice more torqueing to 75 ft/lbs then 100.
First I've seen an electrolysis pit. Also your stable is perfect.
"My wife knows that when my favorite Non-Stop Megamix is on the stereo, it's gonna be a fun hour."
Toyota Supra Turbo For Sale Last year I did many upgrades to my vr4. Built trans, BC cams/gears, billet oil pump gear, coil on plug setup etc After getting it back together I ran into an awful electrical issue where the car kept shutting off. I ended up having to get an oscilloscope to track down the issue. I made a blog post about it here: 3000gt MFI Problem
My issue was ADCR11 was not seeing the voltage change which makes me think it is the wrong pin. I tried logging every other ADCR value too and couldn't spot anything that would change. Moving it to B29 and then changing "Switch 7 Analog In" to "baromter volts" fixed my issue. It took me 3 nights to figure all this out lol.
Projects MKIV Supra Build Then I decided I was going to troubleshoot my A/C issue. I think when I bought the car the A/C worked, but not great. My compressor hadn't been kicking on since I don't know when. The pressure switch was still registering so it wasn't a low R134A condition. I could jump the relay and it would kick on, so I knew it wasn't the compressor. I read through the 100 page OEM AC manual. Turns out you can press and hold two buttons on the climate unit and turn the ignition on. It will go through some light sequences to self troubleshoot. However when I did this it came back as normal. I then went to the A/C amplifier and measured resistance for all the sensors (solar, room sensor, compressor lock sensor etc) and they were all in spec.
Mini GT 1:64 MiJo Exclusive HKS Toyota GR Supra (A90) 2020 Tokyo Auto Salon So that is what I did. I went with 6AN conductive PTFE line from Racetronix. It required all new AN fittings as ptfe uses 3 piece fitting with an inside "olive" piece that crushes as you tighten it. The inside diameter is the same, but the outside diameter of the hose is smaller. Because of this I was able to run it inside the factory undercarriage tray. I got rid of my stock hardline as the flare nut was all messed up. For the fuel pump assembly I had to get a banjo bolt to 6AN adapter. I measured the factory banjo holes to find one that matched. I wanted the same size openings and height. The MAMBA one on ebay is what I went with (K028-0018-US). I ended up using the oem banjo bolt though vs the one that came with the Mamba unit as the banjo bolt holes were slightly bigger.
Toyota Celica XX Brochure Catalog JDM Rare Supra 77 81 78 79 80 A40 Mk2 GT ST I'm so curious to see if your SRT's clear the 18" CCW's. I run Peter's kit as well and mine juuuust clear 18" Te37's, but it's the inner barrel that you have to be worried about, not the face or offset. I hope they work!
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Mini GT 1:64 Japan Exclusive D1 GP HKS Toyota GR Supra #77 Fat Five Racing Model First thing I did was fix the fuel gauge. When someone installed the 2 fuel pumps they bent the hanger enough to force the dial away from the grid.
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supra77Vitesse moto on Twitter Racing bikes Super Pinterest Eventually I'll be selling the stock wheels and calipers. I'm not going to throw out any prices or say when though as I don't know when I'll get to putting the new wheels on. I want to hang onto them for a little bit until after testing the calipers. I've had easily 10+ people ask about them already between here and FB lol.
I've been a member for several years and finally bought my first Supra last fall. It's a 95 White Supra TT Automatic. It was basically what I was looking for (white, automatic, targa, < 100k, clean title, rust free, pre-96) and surprisingly 3 hours away. It was a little more than I wanted to pay but it already had some modifications done to it that I would have done anyways. My goal is to make it a nice street car.
Joel switched to 3.5" diameter driveshafts instead of 4". Yes they are technically weaker, but if you look up the strength specs you'll see that 3.5" is still rated for over 1000hp. The smaller diameter makes it lighter and more importantly provides clearance. The reverse lockout solenoid on the Magnum-F is practically touching the trans tunnel. In Joels videos he uses a pry bar to "bend the metal" but when I did this really it didn't bend much. Instead it bumped the transmission over slightly. I bet this makes the 4" driveshaft want to touch a carrier mount in the trans tunnel. I ended up shoving a block of wood up in between the transmission and tunnel on passenger side so the trans wouldn't move. Then I used a pry bar and dented in the metal to have probably 1/4" clearance. Now it sits centered and I have room around everything.
I replaced the silicone with a walbro fuel pump sleeve. I figured that would be fuel safe. I also cleaned out the slosh box.
You need a new shifter cover panel if you are going from the Magnum to Magnum-F. The original one Grannas sold won't work. He sells a new one. I had sent him some pics. I used the template he provided and it ended up cutting the hole at the wrong angle in the front. I had it the right side up. I believe the slant on the front line of his template is going the wrong way. If you print the template (make sure it's at 100% scaling), hole it up to the underside of his cover first. You'll see the front slant of the template doesn't follow the front portion of the cover. It's the exact opposite. So I ended up with a front cut that the panel didn't quite cover. I had to modify my cover panel by welding a lip onto the front to fix it. Personally I think Joel should do that anyways. It gives it more surface area for the seam sealer to bite to. Also use Autozone Seam sealer. I had tried some stuff from Advance and it didn't want to harden as quick or as hard. I ended up starting over with the stuff from Autozone. They were out of stock (which is why I tried what Advance sold) so I had to order some.
Performance & General Modification
Deep Water Generator (Hypothetical) I may have missed it but did you switch to the aluminum bellhousing when you went to the magnum F?
My car now has the IBS TRD spoiler on it from Russia. I need to paint it still. I could rattle can it like I did the other one, but I'd just have to sand it off which would create more work. This spoiler is hands down the best one I have seen. It fits perfect and is well built. The studs sticking out the bottom are huge yet fit perfectly centered in the oem hatch holes. I have more pics and a detailed review (including a walk around video) here:
Picking it up in springfield MA:
It turns out it was the signal from the A/C Amplifier to the ECU. Or technically the ECU pin. It would read 4.65v when the A/C button was off and 24mv when the A/C button was on. If I logged the ADCR11 voltage value in AEM the voltage would never show as changing It read around 5v. So either AEM has this pin defined wrong (which could happen, I know for my vr4 there are two pins they confirmed aren't documented correctly), or something is wrong with mine. I removed the wire from pin 34A at my ECU (ADCR11) and moved it over to 29A (ADCR12 or "baromter volts"). That took care of it. I had read old posts about people building a circuit to increase the voltage and then feeding that into a high side input. I don't think that is necessary though. In AEM you can add all the options for "Switch 7" (see black portion of image below) and you'll see that "Switch 7 On Above" is set to 2.49V and "Switch 7 On Below" is set to 0V. That means when voltage is between 0 and 2.49V, Switch 7 is "off". When it's above 2.49V Switch 7 is on. So the A/C button causing 4.65v when pushed in and 24mv when off should work. It will cause the "Switch 7 Off" condition when the AC button is on and that is what LS6 uses as an input condition to activate the clutch.
ETA February March 2022 Arrived 5142022Mini GT 164 Japan Exclusive D1GP HKS Toyota GR Supra 77 Fat Five Racing Note Chance for Chase car
Design a high tech and modern enclosure for a small touch screen wireless device Calipers ground down for more clearance. They fit without any modifications but I had about 1.3mm of clearance to inside of wheel. Brembo wants 3mm.
These pages helped me:
HKS GR Supra D1 GP 2020 #77 H.Matsuyama Fat Five Racing (RHD) Japan Limited (Chase Car) (Diecast Car) Hi Res image list finish cleaning, painting, installing 4 post lift
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supra77 Instagram photos and videos I was nervous it may be the vehicle speed input as I did the pink/blue wire mod near my odometer (after re-soldering didn't fix it) to try and fix why my ECU wasn't seeing speed. People have success with this for automatic shifting points. In reality the speed sensor outputs a sine wave which goes to the cluster and odometer. The odometer converts the sine wave to a square wave and sends it to the ECU, and other places including the A/C amplifier. With AEM I was not able to use a sine wave signal. It worked mostly as it was the same frequency but it would register 255mph spikes every few seconds. I ended up having to tie into my Right Rear abs sensor to get a clean signal for the ECU speed. I was worried that the A/C Amplifier may be having trouble with the signal. I posted on FB and I was able to confirm with other people who had done the pink/blue wire mod that their A/C still worked. That was good news.
Economical, Bold, Iot 3D Design for a Company by supra77 I forgot I had also made page dedicated to my first vr4 if anyone wants to check it out. I went through a lot with this car.
MiniGT 1:64 307 HKS Toyota GR Supra #77 (Fat Five Racing) (2020 D1 Grand Prix 日本職業飄移賽) (RHD) (吸塑版) (Japan Exclusive 日本限定版), 公告欄 Carousell That sums it up for now. I know it was a long post. I'm not sure what else I'll do to my Supra in the immediate future. Probably just drive and enjoy it for the rest of summer. Long term though
Overall I'm happy with the BBK and CCW wheels. They make the car look much better. The new brakes bite really well too. I do have some fender or fender liner rubbing up front when I hit a bump. I'm still trying to track down exactly what rubs. I jacked up the opposite rear corner and bounced up/down on the front strut tower area and nothing hits. I'm going to get an alignment soon then mess with it more.
Always love your updates, your detail and thoroughness is always a pleasure to read. Would love to check out the garage in person one day! All great cars. Keep up the good work.
Anyways that consumed most of my Fall, and then winter came fast so I didn't get to finish tuning my Supra (just raising boost and adjusting timing left). Now that the vr4 problem is resolved I need to circle back to the Supra.
1991 Toyota Supra Turbo Hardtop/Sunroof 5MT (BPU)
Supra Forums is the largest online Toyota Supra MKI, MKII, MKIII, MKIV and MKV owner's club community. Discuss DIY, modifications, and upgrades.
Front dust shield modified.
MINI GT HKS TOYOTA GR SUPRA 77 D1 GRAND PRIX 307 za 803 Kč some tuning work on my vr4
Do the indexing. I never did on my first trans as the original Grannas videos never mentioned it. I never had problems with it, but honestly I only put about 800 miles on it. Mine measured 0.016 which is beyond the 0.005. I bought pins from Grannas. He has a new style out which are solid and don't need to be cut and modified like the ones quicktime sold. They worked perfectly and now I'm out 0.0025 max which is well within spec. The trans slid right on with zero fighting.
supra77 Top Designer Senior Industrial Product Designer Solidworks ID Jakarta Indonesia Global rank 10 66398 Skill pts 2158 13 1st 1st Place
Modern, Upmarket, mobile phones 3D Design for a Company by supra77 I know Joel runs the lines out the hydraulic feed/bleeder lines out the bigger hole in the bottom of the trans. Just like before I used the top two smaller holes (1 for each line). However this time I filed around the inside edges of these holes so there would be no sharp edges. I think this keeps the lines tucked up higher and allows you a bigger opening on the bottom for peaking in.
Jada 33079 Power Rangers Toyota FT 1 Concept 1:32 with Pink Ranger Figure » BT Diecast Here is a video I made on the gauge retrofit. Skip towards end to see them lit up. My phone doesn't capture how good they look in person. Trying to take a picture of them makes them look purplish. Taking a video of them is slightly better. In person they look even better.
MINI GT 1/64 CHASE HKS TOYOTA GR SUPRA # 77 you've done a marvelous job with your Supra. I could only wish to put that type of time and money into mine lol hope you enjoy it this upcoming season!
More pics of the gauge cluster project here: 802Projects Rx7 Interior
DC2 Integra Track/Daily Build Thread hopefully some paint work on my supra this fall
All safe and sound with some of my other projects.
Used 2020 Toyota Corolla for Sale Near Me First off the T56 Magnum-F is awesome. The shifter is so sturdy. There is no wobble in it. The shifts are effortlessly. The Sikky setup was harder to shift and there would be wobble. Also it seemed to want to clank, especially when shifting into the back gears. I'm really glad I upgraded. I had been on the fence about it and I had been reasoning with myself not to upgrade "It's expensive", "a lot of other platforms have shifter linkages", "I don't put a lot of miles on my car", "I'd have to buy a new driveshaft", "something else will come out even better" The truth is it bugged me every time I drove the Supra and I was sick of reasoning with myself. I decided to just do it and now I am glad I did.
I need to decide on tires. I want something where if I get stuck in the rain I won't hydroplane and destroy my car. I was thinking Nitto nt05s but I read they run narrow. I don't want anything that looks stretched, I want a stiff sidewall, I want something that protects the face of the rim, and I want a tread pattern that can shed water.
802Projects Green VR4 Story
Reproduction Vintage Ceramic Tree Lights (bulbs) eventually paint spoiler and repaint faded rear bumper
Mini GT D1 GP HKS Toyota GR Supra 77 Fat Five Racing eBay I did some research and saw that there are AN lines that supposedly do not allow vapor to escape. Earls make some specialty line and Raceflux is another company. Apparently they line the inside of the hose with Viton material. However someone on FB said that he went down this path and it still didn't eliminate the smell. The only thing that did, was going with PTFE lines (teflon coated).
Animal (and other) themed kettlebells I visited Harbor Freight again for an NPT tap kit. I did not have the right drill bit and didn't want to pay $20+ for one, so I borrowed one from a friends work. I decided I was going to try to prevent as many shavings as possible from going into the valve covers and if I wasn't confident with my cleaning job; I'd pull the baffling and tap/Loctite bolts to hold it back on.
The ballistic friendly version of Pit Vipers I figured some of my oil leaks probably had to do with me increasing my boost last fall. Now that I'm at around 24 psi it's just too much for the factory PCV system off the drivers side valve cover and having my passenger valve cover vented. Under boost the PCV closes so that really left one hole for breathing. After thinking about every scenario (see pic) I wanted both sides to vent. I researched about 10 different catch cans before deciding to go with the Freed Engineering one. I liked it because I wouldn't need to weld on bungs, I might not need to remove the baffling, and 1/2" NPT to 10AN 90 degree fittings they use keep the AN hose tucked in more to the valve covers.
A Clean, Original 1977 Toyota Celica GT Offers Muscle Car Looks in a Scaled Down Package That's about it for now. Still a bunch of car stuff left to do this summer
MINI GT HKS TOYOTA GR SUPRA 77 D1 GRAND PRIX 307 12252045936 ajgibson528 said: I second the antenna switch! nice work! Do you plan on keeping the oem wheels? Click to expand
1995 Toyota Supra Turbo 6MT (APU)
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I cleaned up the hotwire relay too and added some terminal covers to protect the leads
Wow it has been a while since I've updated this thread. A lot has changed. Time for a big update
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Santa Clara Valley Water District v. Century Indemnity Company 1993.5 Toyota Supra Turbo Hard Top (BPU)
supra77 Freelance 3D Designer amp Graphic Designer DesignCrowd Added some duplicolor caliper paint over the areas I groudn down. Not an exact match but blends well and the outer part of the caliper is not visible when installed.
My rx7 was down for about 2 years while I had the entire car stripped and painted. Its 100% back together now. I even retrofitted some speedhut gauges and changed my climate control to LED. I got it inspected and aligned a few weeks ago so its back on the road. I charged the A/C the other day too. Its been fun driving it around. More pics of paint job here: 802Projects Rx7 Paint Job
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SUPRA & HEX Supra SKYTOP 77 KenHenderson said: I know a bit about multiple, simultaneous car projects, but you've really got a lot going on. How's the backlighting on your Speed Hut gauges? Have you found a way to adjust it (make it brighter)? TIA. Ken. Click to expand It's really good. The original speedhut gauges use an el glow panel which isn't super bright and their white color looks kind of greenish. Speedhut also makes gauges that are resold by Holley EFI and for their gauges they use leds. I had them make mine with the same LEDs they use for the Holley gauges. I guess they plan to switch everything to led soon. So nice and bright. You can add a dimmer. I have a variable resistor tucked under my dash, and have it set probably 80% bright.
This is the Michelin Pilot Super Sport in 295/35/18 on a 11" wide rear Porsche rim. Not really stretched, no bubbled sidewall, has face protection.
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No1_Special said: I'm so curious to see if your SRT's clear the 18" CCW's. I run Peter's kit as well and mine juuuust clear 18" Te37's, but it's the inner barrel that you have to be worried about, not the face or offset. I hope they work! Click to expand I hope they do. I know another person is running 18" classics with the kit and he had to shave a little on the top/bottom of the calipers. But his wheels are older CCWs. I guess the barrels were redesigned and have a little bit more room now. So we will see in a few weeks.
I finally installed the whifbitz carbon spoiler I had bought. I needed to do quite a bit of sanding to get it to sit flush. I just rattle canned it for now using about $20 in spraypaint from advanced (perfectmatch super white II color and clear). While I think I'd be happy with it, I decided that I also want to buy the amigos spoiler (from Russia) and see which one I like better before paying for professional paint. I'll resell whichever one I don't keep. I'm going to have my rear bumper sprayed at the same time as it's its faded over time. Even though the rattle can job isn't the greatest, I think the TRD wing drastically changes the looks of my car for the better. I'm going to hang onto my hoop wing too, but I don't think I'll ever go back.
Mini GT 164 Japan Exclusive D1GP HKS Toyota GR Supra 77 Fat One more quick update. When I was under the car working on the transmission I kept getting a whiff of fuel fuel. I thought I had a fuel leak somewhere, but I couldn't find any. Then I put my nose up to the 6AN line I had running under the car for my second fuel pump, and holy crap! That was it. I guess it is common for braided AN line to allow fuel vapor to escape. This was news to me. I went out to my 3000gt (which has a much shorter 2-3' section of AN line) and I could smell fuel there too.
You have the 90‘s dream car garage of toys congrats
1985 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type 5MT
How's the backlighting on your Speed Hut gauges? Have you found a way to adjust it (make it brighter)? HKS 3.4L: 1110 all-boost whp/839 lb-ft @ 2.6KG/CM^2 1994 "SP ENGINEERING" TWIN HKS GT3240 TOYOTA SUPRA TURBO
I always had some oil pooling and dripping from the bottom of my bell housing. I decided to find and fix all my oil leaks. The "While I'm in there" factor also led into me doing some other stuff
Used 2020 Toyota Avalon for Sale Near Me Brake dust shield mod looks great.
Edit: Ended up ordering 295/35/18 rear and 275/35/18 front Michelin Pilot Super Sports from TireRack. They have a $120 gift card promotion right now and free shipping. They were a little more expensive than I wanted, but seem like they are designed really well and I grew sick of researching tires
Carpinus betulus L Carpinus betulus L Stock Photo Here is a video I made outlining the PFTE lines in more detail if anyone is curious:
The car fired right up and everything seems well. I've put about 50 miles on it. It shifts so well. On my first drive my dimmed interior lighting jumped to full brightness:/ My factory rheostat wasn't working. A new one is around $100. I pulled it apart though and the 16v 22uF capacitor on the inside was bulged and leaking onto the board. I cleaned it up and soldered in a new one. It works now. There was a metal nut on the outside too that holds the variable resistor in place. That had loosened up and may have also contributed to the problem.
MINI GT 164 CHASE HKS TOYOTA GR SUPRA 77 First I finished restoring the 4 post lift last year. What a project that was. It's operational now and has already came in handy. If you want to relive through my pain, watch this video:
Toyota Celica Brochure Catalog JDM Rare Supra 77 81 78 79 80 A40 Mk2 GT ST This summer I posted my T56 Magnum for sale on FB marketplace. It was a feeler. If it sold, I'd pull it and upgrade to the Magnum-F. If it didn't, I'd keep driving the car and eventually do the trans upgrade in the offseason. Well it sold. Someone with an MK3 bought it. Apparently it's exactly what that platform needs. The Magnum-F won't work for them. So if you have an MK3 Supra and want a T56, don't buy new. You'll get a good deal on a low mileage used one from someone with an MK4 wanting to upgrade. It'll be a win win for both people.
I got the BBK and CCW wheels installed! It took some time but I didn't want it to look like a hack job. I ended up modifying the front and rear dust shields so I could retain as much as possible. I did end up having to shave some of the calipers and tweak a few other things for fitment.
After getting it home and unloaded from the trailer and took the top off.
I know a bit about multiple, simultaneous car projects, but you've really got a lot going on.
Toyota Supra vs. 2019 BMW Z4 Comparison At lunch I put plastics back on. I wish my phone could capture how good Stus leds look in person.
While I was waiting on stuff I tackled some other projects:
new oem floor mats and door cards if they ever come out of the heritage program
And since I had the ECU accessible I decided to finally wire in my cruise switch for 3 step (aka No Lift to Shift). I used pin A3 of the ECU and that worked as expected.
rear dust shield modified:
Below are some pics. I also made several videos during the process that I spliced together that show how I modified things.
Modern, Upmarket, mobile phones 3D Design for a Company by abdillah.yusuf fastfalcon94 said: Since I was on a role I decided to fix some other stuff that bugged me. I did a bunch of research on washer nozzles. Mine were clogged. I'm sure I could have unclogged them, but the oem white paint on them was also worn from someone getting too close with a buffer. It turns out some from a 2002-2006 Camry fit well and they use a misty bar style spray vs two streams. Click to expand Great info. I replaced the nozzles on my CRX with a newer Civic for the same reasons, the misting is so much better. Good to know that this OEM+ type of upgrade is available for the Supra too.
MINI GT 164 CHASE HKS TOYOTA GR SUPRA 77 Regular price 40 00 Regular price Sale price 40 00 OUT OF STOCK Product variants
I was happy with the way they came out. I decided to keep the baffling in place vs removing and drill/tapping the underside for bolts. To be fair I think I'd be more nervous of a bolt exposed to hot oil coming lose and dropping down into my valvetrain than I would be about an aluminum flake being trapped in my baffling with the only place it can eventually work it's way to is my catch can.
Tire fitment is great. 295/35/18 on 18x11 rear, 275/35/18 on 18x10 front. No bubbled sidewall, not really any crazy stretch. edge of lip is protected. Just right.
I finally finished the bathroom in my garage. I had hot water on demand installed this spring. I've already showered out there a few times. I'm trying to convince the gf to move into the room above the garage and airbnb the house.
Rhenium Catalyzed Dehydration and Deoxydehydration of Alcohols and Polyols: Opportunities for the Formation of Olefins from Biomass some tuning work on my supra
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signalpuke said: Great info. I replaced the nozzles on my CRX with a newer Civic for the same reasons, the misting is so much better. Good to know that this OEM+ type of upgrade is available for the Supra too. Click to expand I’m adding them to my shopping list.
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Mini GT 164 Japan Exclusive D1 GP HKS Toyota GR Supra eBay 96 Cianci Widebody 3000GT VR-4
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supra77 Senior Industrial Product Designer Solidworks in Jakarta For the oil leaksNew valve cover gaskets, double lock down cam sensor seal from drift motion (highly recommend), drift motion 10AN oil return fitting which uses an o-ring instead of factory gasket, cam seals, rear main seal (also resealed behind housing). My front crank seal was fine, but I replaced that anyways.
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Oh my, that's soooo sexy.
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The person wanted to see the trans in action. So they drove up, I took them for a spin, they agreed to buy and I removed it while the guy brought his wife to lunch. I immediately ordered the T56 Magnum-F from Grannas. I had some downtime while waiting for the transmission, and then again while waiting for the index pins, and then even again while waiting for the driveshaft to be corrected (one sent to me was about 1/4" too long) so I tackled a few other projects on the Supra as well. But first lets start with the Magnum-F pics and feedback
Before I was using the factory fuel filter on the oem hardline in addition to a an aftermarket no-name brand fuel filter on the secondary line. Now I'm using two fuellab filters that have 6AN in and 6AN out. I made my own mounting bracket out of aluminum for the filters. It tucks them up out of the way nicely. I was able to use factory mounting points for the bracket. There are some bolts that stick through the lower part of the firewall. They come from the inside of the car and are used to hold the sensor/stop beneath the gas pedal. I replaced the bolts with some longer ones and I used the other side of them that sticks through the firewall to mount my bracket. So no more smell, no more rounded/vice-gripped flare nut, no more mismatched fuel filters, and now all of my line runs under the factory undercarriage cover.
I was going to try drilling the holes bigger upside down, but that proved too much to me. So I kept them level on my work bench. I added grease to the tap and did 2-3 turns then cleaned it and repeat. The grease captured most of the shavings. When I was done I was able to press my finger against any shavings that fell down inside and pull them out. Then I used a vacuum with a small rubber hose shoved into the end of it. Then I brought them to my parts cleaner. Then I soaked them in a bin of hot soapy water. I sloshed them around real good. Then I took a garden hose to them. Then when they dried I ran compressed air through them.
I was going Supra77 to try drilling the holes bigger upside down, but that proved too much to me. So I kept them level on my work bench. I added grease to the tap and did 2-3 turns then cleaned it and repeat. The grease captured most of the shavings. When I was done I was able to press my finger against any shavings that fell down inside and pull them out. Then I used a vacuum with a small rubber hose shoved into the end of it. Then I brought them to my parts cleaner. Then I soaked them in a bin of hot soapy water. I sloshed them around real good. Then I took a garden hose to them. Then when they dried I ran compressed air through them.
Kylehgb1 said: I may have missed it but did you switch to the aluminum bellhousing when you went to the magnum F? Click to expand I kept the steel one. I figured it was stronger and Joel wants you to do indexing on both styles now.